The Greek salad arrived on my table in Athens in a way I’d never seen before – a glistening whole tomato atop whipped feta and rusk crumbs. With two swift cuts, the waiter quartered the hollowed shell, revealing a vibrant vegetable mince within. It was unlike any Greek salad I’d encountered, yet each bite tasted unmistakably of the humble classic. This dish, a testament to culinary re-invention, epitomized the spirit of a city that is redefining its gastronomic identity.
Athens: More Than Just a Gateway to the Islands
For years, Athens has been treated by many travelers as merely a stepping stone, a brief stopover before venturing to Greece’s idyllic islands. The Acropolis, a fleeting glimpse, then off to the next adventure. But beneath the city’s seemingly imperfect, graffiti-splashed streets, a deeper narrative is unfolding. Tradition thrives, yes, but so do imagination and, crucially, hope. The Greek capital is reinventing itself, one meticulously crafted dish at a time.
The Visionaries Behind Athens’ Culinary Rebirth
“We need to look back to see where we came from, show respect for tradition but with innovative ideas,” explains chef and restaurateur Spyros Liakos. Alongside his twin brother Vangelis, Liakos is at the forefront of several modern Greek culinary ventures. The re-imagined Greek salad was just the beginning of a culinary parade at Ateno, his latest collaboration with chef Nikos Karathanos.
Karathanos, once the youngest Greek chef to earn a Michelin star, has deliberately stepped away from the world of fine dining. At Ateno, he crafts more democratic dishes, reinterpreting Greek classics with a harmonious blend of comfort and creativity. “I think memory is the most important thing. Use your recipes as the base, but make it modern,” Karathanos shared with attendees at Gastrosophy, a gathering of culinary minds exploring the philosophical dimensions of food.
At Ateno, gemista – Greek stuffed peppers – are transformed into a vegetarian tartare, held together by a delicate tomato water gel, while his moussaka boasts layers of crispy potato, a departure from the traditional. The esteemed Italian chef Massimo Bottura, of Osteria Francescana fame, headlined the food festival, urging local chefs to delve into their roots and filter centuries of history through a contemporary lens, thereby redefining the essence of Greek dining.
A Deep Dive into Athens’ Culinary Backstreets
Given the strong Greek migration to Australia, many Australians are familiar with classic Greek dishes. However, there’s always more to discover. To truly savor a city’s culinary soul, seeking out local chefs, food writers, and guides is paramount. Our journey led us to Constantine from Culinary Backstreets, who guided us on a slow food crawl through the historic Plaka district.
Over five to six hours, we bypassed tourist traps, indulging in bougatsa and baklava, dakos and dolmades. We immersed ourselves in traditional Greek coffee culture, sampled exquisite artisanal olive oils, and enjoyed not one, but two leisurely long-table lunches. After eight stops and sampling over 25 dishes, the profound influence of the Greek diaspora became crystal clear. Dining solo in a country built on communal plates can be daunting, making the Culinary Backstreets food tour invaluable, particularly for its two shared mezze stops, where a half-dozen dishes arrived simultaneously, enjoyed family-style.
The Athens of Today: A City of Contrasts and Culinary Delights
On the surface, Athens presents itself as a raw and unruly metropolis – an endless beige expanse of cracked footpaths and spontaneous graffiti. It’s rough around the edges, yet it pulses with an undeniable energy. While traditional taverns remain a fixture on almost every block, a new wave of local chefs is pushing boundaries, reinterpreting beloved classics with a fresh perspective.
At Seychelles, our dinner commenced with a deceptively simple yet perfect single tomato, thinly sliced and accompanied by the creamiest feta and rye rusks. At Manari, two chefs orchestrate a mesmerizing dance around the charcoal grill, transforming taverna staples like lamb chops and kebabs with a renewed reverence. In the city’s suburbs, Travolta, once a humble fish tavern, now propels Greek seafood into uncharted waters without sacrificing the authentic soul of the Aegean.
And at Hoocut, souvlaki – Greece’s affordable, cheerful everyman food – receives a modern remix, retaining its authentic roots and accessible pricing. Athens is a city with one foot firmly planted in tradition and the other stepping boldly into the future. Tradition nourishes the present, and the present, in turn, keeps tradition vibrantly alive. If you seek history, the Acropolis awaits. But if you possess genuine curiosity, you’ll discover that the true story of Athens is unfolding on its plates.
Where to Eat in Athens: A Curated Guide
Restaurants and Tavernas:
- Ateno: Modern, creative Greek cuisine that redefines classics.
- Travolta: Seafood with deep Greek roots, pushing culinary boundaries.
- Manari: A very cool modern Greek taverna offering innovative dishes.
- Seychelles: A modern Greek taverna experience with a focus on fresh ingredients.
Street Eats:
- Hoocut: A modern gyros spot; try the lamb and fried squid.
- Kostas: A classic gyros spot known for its distinctive yogurt sauce.
- Kosta: Another classic gyros spot, featuring a delicious tomato sauce.
- Stani: Athens’ last remaining old-school dairy bar, operating since 1931.
- Krinos: Frying up delectable loukoumades since 1923.
Daniela Sunde-Brown is a Lisbon-based travel writer and founder of Olá Daniela. She was invited by Gastrosophy to experience Athens and extended her stay at her own expense.
Source: https://travel.nine.com.au/destinations/athens-travel-food-where-to-eat-and-drink-best-places/470eae60-7f2a-4771-abea-d0c830160d80
